My Afternoon in Meskine

After several hours at a hotel pool in nearby Maroua, with friends from the hospital, a great meal of beef kebabs and french fries for me and Tilapia kebabs and plantains for Rob, a nice cold orange Fanta (soda), and a bit of a break from the sweltering heat, the afternoon changed pace. Sheltered from our normal daily routine and the busy crowded streets of Maroua, we reluctantly pulled ourselves from the cool blue pool, changed out of our would be “revealing” bathing suits and into skirts that sweep the top of our dusty sandals, a t-shirt, hot from the sun, and wrap up our hair and heads to be properly covered. It’s amazing how quickly the coolness of the pool faded away. We gathered our things, payed for our stay, and opened the doors to the outside world. Motorbikes rushed by, all sorts of sounds and languages that I didn’t understand whisked around me. We got into the steamy truck and bounced along down the street. We had a few stops to make before we headed home. No big deal, I thought, it has been such a nice cool and relaxing day. The first stop left us on the side of a very loud and crowded market. Rob negotiated the prices of three trash bins with people who knew only broken French (they speak the local language, Fulfulde, in the markets). After about 20 minutes. Success, three dusty trash cans with lids (important!) got placed next to me in the back of the truck. While waiting for Rob, Rachael and I had hopped out and gone into a bakery (boulangerie) to look for some bread so we wouldn’t have to bake any that night. After surveying the large mass of flies that had taken up residents on the baguettes we decided that we weren’t really craving bread anymore. So our journey continued. Bouncing along, honking at passing goats, zooming around motorbikes. Stop! Rachael spotted a food store, the kind that might sell flour. I had purchased flour the day before only to find out that even after sifting it, it still had some mysterious brown specs all throughout. So, we entered the store, which was probably nearing 100 degrees inside. Some great finds! We got two kilos (4lbs.) of flour (I tried to peek in and check for the mysterious brown specs, but wasn’t given the privilege), a small notebook, tomato paste, a bottle of imported vanilla (from France), and a bottle of very dusty shampoo. As we stood to pay, not realizing that Rachael understood Arabic, the lady next to us commented to her friend that we were very rich (we were paying with the equivalent of a $10 bill).
Back in the truck and off to drop off some mail at a friend’s house in town. Not being on the main paved road, we bounced along a bit slower and a bit bouncier to get to their place. At the end, they weren’t there, but we left the mail with the guards. By the time we waited in the hot car to see if our friends were there, said goodbye to the guards, and got back to the paved road, I thought about how nice it would be to have been magically transported from the cool pool to my couch…Maybe next century! We stopped at the hospital compound (yeah, still driving, this is now back in Meskine, the suburb where we live, no paved roads here…lots of bouncing). We were stopping here to pick up a bag of beef that Roy and Jane, a British doctor and his wife, had picked up for me at the market that morning. You have to buy the meat in the morning so that it hasn’t sat out in the sun all day long. The meat market in Meskine is only open once a week and I had come in after it, so this meat delivery was very much appreciated. We bounced along home and unloaded all our goods. Memories from the cool clean pool had long faded. Children gathered all around as the “nasara” (the white people) unloaded their strange goods from the car. They attempted to talk to us, but we don’t their language. I just shrugged my shoulders, said “How are you?” in French and we entered our gates. Ah, home.
I opened the bag of meat, which turned out to be meat, veggies and fruit! I was ecstatic. I hadn’t bought any fresh produce since I’d been here, so I’d been rationing our canned green beans and corn until market day in Meskine. But here in my hands I had things I didn’t even know you could buy here: Green Peppers, Leaks, Carrots, Green Beans, Potatoes, Bananas, tomatoes, cabbage and what…an avocado!!! I was jumping around the house! Rob, I’m going to make us a real meal tonight! Not just bread and jam with canned green beans! Then the real fun began. Oh yes, I need to wash the produce before I put it away. The process: Fill a bin with well water and dish soap, scrub each veggie to get of dirt and any critters (I didn’t find any this time!). Then transfer the produce to a clean bucket that I filled with 1 gallon of filtered water and a capful of bleach. These need to soak for at least 20 minutes. The cabbage didn’t fit, so I had to put it in its own bucket. Sadly, though, we ran out of filtered water after filling up the cabbage bucket about half way…hmmm, this isn’t good. Well, I’ll just flip it over and soak it for 40 minutes…that’s okay, right? Oh, and is it okay that the peppers are floating and not actually submerged? Like I know!?
Well, it’s getting late, so I need to start dinner. Rob goes outside to see if the well tank has dried up but the ladder is missing. Eventually he finds out that there is still water, it’s just the filter that has dried up and we have to wait for it to refill until tomorrow. Dinner was going to be Tuna Casserole. Although I had decided I wouldn’t bake it because it was 95 degrees in the kitchen and the thought of raising the temp via the oven to 350 was not appealing. I open the can of tuna, Rob chops the onions. Oh, there’s no pan left for me to use, we haven’t washed them from breakfast…That’s a process to (washing, filtered water, boiling, I won’t go into details). Okay, a clean pot! Now, I need some milk for the recipe. Oh, no milk. But here’s milk powder! Three spoonfuls to one glass? Okay…alright, now what? Finally, the recipe is finished. I planned to have leftover green beans for dinner, but they were in the fridge. With no microwave, I needed to heat them on the stove, but I had no will left. So we sat down with sort-of tuna casserole and cold green beans. We washed it down with our malaria medicine that we had forgotten to take at lunch. We sat looking at each other at dinner…I guess we still have to rinse the bleached veggies, but there’s no filtered water. We decided to use our drinking water from the fridge, because the veggies couldn’t sit out all night, and hoped the filter would refill by morning.
At 10 o’clock, after all the cleaning, spraying the ants that had surrounded the food trash bin, watching an episode of Cosby on the computer, turned off all the fans, killed a roach, 2 crickets and a centipede, the thermometer said 92, and I crawled underneath the mosquito net of our bed, and closed my eyes…dreaming of that far away time when I was laying in the pool…ah!